Do You Know Where Your Shoes Have Been? 6/4/2009 1:46:12 PM
by Keith Goetzman Tags: Environment, forests, deforestation, Amazon, cattle, leather, sustainable business, business ethics
Timberland bootWeve previously written about The True Cost of Leather, citing the Ecologists reporting about toxic tanneries in Bangladesh. It turns out theres even more to the story if you follow the shoe industrys supply chain to Braziland it might change the way you feel about the shoes youre wearing right now.
Greenpeace this week announced the release of a report, Slaughtering the Amazon, that calls out several major shoe makers for using leather from cattle farms in the Amazon, which are gobbling up rainforest at an alarming rate and hence driving greenhouse gas emissions. Among the makers singled out in the report are Nike, Adidas, Reebok, and two brands that have a place in my own closet: Timberland and Clarks. I specifically sought out the Timberland brand because of the companys stated environmental consciousness.
Grists Tom Philpott notes that the report is really about the perils of using state policy to prop up global, corporate-dominated trade and notes three clear themes:
The expansion of cattle production in Brazil drives Amazon deforestationand deforestation in turn drives climate change.
The Brazilian government and the World Bank actively support the expansion of the nations cattle sector.
and
The real beneficiaries of such policies are not Brazilians. Indeed, labor conditions on Amazonian cattle farms are harrowingand often tantamount to slavery, Greenpeace shows. Rather, its the companies that buy the products cheap and sell them dear.
Greenpeace allows that some of the companies named may not in fact know that they are using leather from unsustainable Amazon farms, due in part to a convoluted supply chain that effectively launders leather supplies from criminal or dirty sources. But that doesnt let them off the hook, it argues, and suggests that people write to the companies and urge them to clean up their acts. Timberland and Clarks, my letter is in the mail.
(Prologue: Timberland spokeswoman Kate King writes that Timberland wants to engage with Greenpeace on the issue of tropical deforestation in a response on Greenpeaces blog.)