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Title: The Civil War Begins - Arizona threatens to cut off power to Los Angeles over immigration law boycott
Source: www.abc15.com
URL Source: http://www.abc15.com/content/financ ... on/RBINaWwt1kOaUTJxnHs5Xg.cspx
Published: May 19, 2010
Author: by: Dave Biscobing
Post Date: 2010-05-19 08:46:23 by Mind_Virus
Keywords: None
Views: 2063
Comments: 139

Arizona energy official calls L.A.'s bluff on total boycott

Reported by: Dave Biscobing Email: dbiscobing@abc15.com Last Update: 5/18 11:16 pm

PHOENIX -- Last week, Los Angeles officially boycotted Arizona to send a message about the state's new immigration law.

Now, the Arizona Corporation Commission is sending back a message of their own.

On Tuesday, Commissioner Gary Pierce wrote a letter to the Los Angeles Mayor and City Council. He said the intention was to "call them out," and see if they are committed to truly cut off all Arizona resources.

"I don't think they thought this through," Pierce said. "There are consequences that involve energy."

Across Arizona, Los Angeles gets 25 percent of its power from three plants, including the Palo Verde Nuclear Station.

The state can't literally pull the plug as the city owns the power.

But if tough-talking Los Angeles officials really decide to go through with this boycott fully, then they will have to go without this electricity.

"You can't call a boycott on the candy store and then pick and choose the candy you really want," Pierce said. "You either boycott or you don't."

However, Los Angeles councilmembers have been perhaps the most outspoken about Senate Bill 1070.

"We want them to be the last state to do this," Councilmember Janice Hahn said after the city first threatened boycotts. "We think we have a lot of leverage over that state."

"This is not a paper resolution. It is real," added Councilmember Ed Reyes after the boycott was approved.

When the Los Angeles City Council made their vote, they were given a report that contained information about the city's contracts with Arizona.

It did not include agreements about water and power.

"I think this boycott is going to backfire," Pierce said. "And they are just going to want it to go away."

After the letter was sent, the Arizona Corporation Commission said by the end of the day, they received dozens of calls and more than 100 emails in support from officials of 18 different states.

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#2. To: Mind_Virus (#0)

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-19   8:48:38 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

Boy, things really appear as if the lid can blow off of this pot-o-shit any day now.

Yes, it does doesn't it?

This isn't something to desire, lots of innocent people, truly innocent like kids and sick folks, are going to be in a world of pain if "something" comes to pass. The only silver lining, for our family anyway, is that we're relatively young (early 40's), mobile, fit and self sufficient.

Looks like all the prayer in the world didn't solve any of this. We appear to be headed into a big ass bloody confrontation. Be ready, be patient, lay low I guess.

SonOfLiberty  posted on  2010-05-19   18:41:24 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-19   18:54:37 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

Our garden this year is huge. Even have blueberry bushes planted, early summer yielders and mid-late summer yielders. If push comes to shove, we have 51,500 heirloom non-hybrid seeds for a variety of foods that grow in this region (veges, melons, herbs, etc) that can be planted across the entire back yard that could sustain us for years if need be (though honestly we'll probably retreat to 40 acres out in the country that is being bequeathed to us soon).

SonOfLiberty  posted on  2010-05-19   19:04:18 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-19   19:10:13 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

I need to find out what kinds of crops grow best and quickest for our climate, which is probably a lot like yours except with a slightly longer growing season.

We're zone 5(b). Where you live is mostly 5 in the north-central, with a range across your state of 5a to 6b.

Figure on lots of tomatoes, green peppers, onions, potatoes, garlic, beans, chili peppers, lettuce, cabbage, etc. If you're in the southern part of your state, you could even swing tobacco successfully. That sir, would be a much better "investment" than gold right there, talk about a good trading crop!

Berries and vines (think raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, hops) take at least a year to establish with no return, with some of the fruiting bushes taking up to 3 years before a return. That said, after 3 years, you're golden for another 50+.

I wish I had that country option. Our space for growing much is limited.

Yeah, 40 acres of land that is being used even now for farming. Rich, rich soil. Where we live now we have a decent garden, but it can't match 40 acres of Growing Goodness. :)

SonOfLiberty  posted on  2010-05-19   19:16:22 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-19   19:25:59 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

No doubt.

Looks like we're in zone 6 actually, 6b. You have a good site for appropriateness there?

And yeah, tobacco would no doubt be very good.

Zone 6b gives you a lot of options. I am 8a and have more na, na, na-na.

Kidding aside you can grow most tree crops, except citrus, apples, pears, plums, peaches, and nectarines. Most berries are hardy in your zone and it is warm enough to grow short season melons in the summer. Winter hardy Leeks and Cabbage can be left in the field till needed, as well as overwintering carrots. Most lettuces and other greens can be grown well into the Fall and again in late winter/early spring. The late and early would have to be done with protection, but a simple tunnel system can be made from plastic pipe and Tufflite IV Greenhouse plastic.

A good source for tree fruits, and a lot of berries, is Raintree Nursery which has about the most extensive selection, and good quality, that I know of.

Original_Intent  posted on  2010-05-19   19:42:22 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-19   19:53:23 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

Also, which crops yield the most food, as I won't be looking primarily for preference, really simply survival?

Also, I'm pretty novice when it comes to this stuff, so the more foolproof the better.

Potatoes?

wudidiz  posted on  2010-05-19   21:01:00 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-19   21:12:52 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

You can get Excalibur dehydrators (the only brand I would ever recommend) off eBay for ~$149.00 and up. Adjustable thermostat, and get the 15 square foot drying space types, the more the better. Those things dry super fast compared to the crap 'as seen on TV!' ones that take forever and make huge messes.

SonOfLiberty  posted on  2010-05-20   8:14:00 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-20   8:18:41 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

Thanks! I'll have to look into them. Still, they take electricity to operate, no?

Yes. It's a tool to use for immediate dehydrating of things you can buy from the store (veges/fruits and some jerky). You can put through tons of produce in one of those very quickly, seal it in vacuum bags and if you do it enough, be good for a year or at least a couple of months. Since time is of the essence, it seems like the best tool for the job.

After electricity goes out, you can fall back on either canning, or construct a no electricity dehydrator out of wood, mesh screen and a decent sized window (assuming you have a hand drill and saws). Of course you could just lay the stuff out on the back porch in the sun, but I have something of an issue letting swarms of flies defecate all over drying food.

I'm thinking just a good stock of dried rice and beans for immediate action.

Rice is a semi-poor storage staple, it will last you a year tops unless you freeze dry it and #10 can it. Whole kernel wheat and beans on the other hand, will keep you in bread and beans for a long time (don't forget to hold back lots of salt as well, which stores indefinitely). Ensure that if you have whole grain anything, that you have a good hand grinder.

No matter what you choose though, if it is bulk stuff like grains/rice/beans, ensure that you kill any critter eggs in it before you store it in oxygen free mylar bags (stuffed inside 5 gallon buckets). It's an easy thing to do, get some dry ice, put a 5-6 gallon mylar bag in a 5 gallon bucket, fill it half way with the staple, throw in a chunk of dry ice, fill the rest of the way with the staple, throw in another chunk of dry ice, and put the lid on the bucket loosely, let the air bleed out. Seal the bucket after that and let the CO2 kill all the critter eggs. Seal the bag with a household iron after throwing a desiccant inside and you're good for 5-7 years most of the time (and probably a year after you open it).

SonOfLiberty  posted on  2010-05-20   8:29:29 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-20   8:43:06 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

Would there be critter eggs in store-bought rice bags?

All grain contains critter eggs, Eric.

Even milling flour doesn't destroy them. Keep a bag of flour long enough and you will see teeny mealy bug worms spawning in it, even if you've kept it sealed.

randge  posted on  2010-05-20   8:51:57 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

Would there be critter eggs in store-bought rice bags?

All grain contains critter eggs, Eric.

Even milling flour doesn't destroy them. Keep a bag of flour long enough and you will see teeny mealy bug worms spawning in it, even if you've kept it sealed.

That reminds me of a sealed box of Quaker Oats that I opened up and then immediately trashed. It was disgusting the damn bugs had webs and probably 2 generations of the bastards in there.

Original_Intent  posted on  2010-05-21   11:16:58 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-21   12:17:31 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

That reminds me of a sealed box of Quaker Oats that I opened up and then immediately trashed. It was disgusting the damn bugs had webs and probably 2 generations of the bastards in there.

Reminds me of the time I found mouse turds all over our kitchen counters. Finally trapped the little bastard. Fortunately it was just one.

One of the advantages of having cats that are good "mousers" is that any mice that are unfortunate enough to make it inside tend to have short lifespans. ;-)

I remember one that got in and had a particular covered path of travel, but had to scamper across a hallway to get from the closet to the kitchen. My cat Stormy basically camped out for 3 days waiting for her chance, but she got her mouse. :-)

Original_Intent  posted on  2010-05-21   12:32:52 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-21   12:43:11 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

The advantage of cats is that they'll catch them "just for fun". Stormy, in particular, loved catching mice, but then she would just play with them till they "broke". Dusty however, ate them with relish (or without).

Original_Intent  posted on  2010-05-21   12:53:48 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-31   13:55:14 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

Not good for lettuce or other cool weather crops such as Snow Peas (once temperatures move stably into the 70's and above) - great for Tomatoes, Melons, Squash, Peas, Carrots, etc., .... Also good for Basil, Dill, Pickles, and most other annual herbs. Alpine Strawberries would do well, but they take a lot of room for a little production - however they are a wonderful gourmet treat. A perennial berry such as a black Raspberry (variety Jewell) would be a productive and tasty addition. I would put it on one end or the other so you could use hoops over the rest to extend the growing season. Lettuce would probably do good in it through November in your Climate Zone. Also Green Onions and leeks could likely be left standing most of the year.

The cheapest way to build the border, if you don't already have lumber on hand, would be with cinder blocks (stacked 2 high) filled with a good rich mixture of compost, glacial rock dust (for its mineral content), and enough topsoil to hold it together. The holes in the cinderblocks can then be filled with soil and used as mini-planters for individual small herbs such as Basil and Parsley. Adding Coir fiber, which is cheap, would aid in moisture retention. More expensive, but more elegant, would be to use loose set stacked "wall rock" from a landscape supply yard. There are other rock options but they get more expensive. You can also buy manmade blocks that have a sandstone finish and those are very attractive too. Plant a few Marigolds, which repel aphids, to give it a homey country cottage look (I like the White Marigolds).

My suggestion would be to carefully grid it out and use something resembling The Square Foot Planting System.

With Poly Pipe and greenhouse plastic or Row Cover material it should make a good 3 season mini-farm capable of producing just about all the veggies you need for 2 people.

Original_Intent  posted on  2010-05-31   14:14:02 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-05-31   23:35:39 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

How frequently do marigolds bloom?

Also, same question to you, what kind of compost should I fill it with, just the local sand/fill seller's "compost?"

Marigolds will bloom all summer. They're an annual but are easy to collect seed from - just let a few of the flowers wither until the petals look really ratty and then clip them off, peel off the leaves and remaining petals, then dry them ( a sunny window sill is fine, then gently rub the seeds out of the center and then plant next spring.

Compost comes in several varieties. Manures and Vegetable Compost with or without manure added. One caution and a thing you want to double check and ensure is NOT in your compost is sludge from sewage treatment plants. While it is a good rich compost it has undesirables in it like heavy metals, pharmaceuticals, and residue from pesticides. The plants will pick up the heavy metals in particular and turn out beautiful veggies loaded with toxic heavy metals. Usually the bag will list the contents and their sources. If in doubt pick another brand or pay the extra money to buy organic compost.

All vegetable composts are good for root crops, but they also tend to be looser and not hold water as well as composts with manure. So, I use both. When I built a new raised bed this year (about 4.5 x 9) I started with 1/2 yard of garden soil from the landscape supply and then used about 9 cubic feet of Vegetable (actually plant) compost, 1.5 cubic feet of composted chicken manure, 1 cubic foot of worm castings, 9 cubic feet of vegetable/plant compost, 9 cubic feet of mixed plant and manure compost, and about 4.5 cubic feet of steer manure. I also used a couple of 2 cubic foot bags of potting mix with coir fiber, and 25 pounds of mineral mix.

Now building a bed as big as you are building is going to be expensive in the first year as you have to buy large quantities of soil and compost to fill a bed that size. Figuring the bed at 5 by 30 and 8 or 9 inches deep works out to about 14 cubic yards. That is if you go one cinderblock high. So, I got to thinking about how to cut costs without cutting essentials. The first would be to buy your baseline soil in bulk from a landscape supply yard. The one near me (which does you no good since I'm in Oregon) charges 25 dollars per cubic yard for garden soil. So 12 yards for the base is $300 versus triple or quadruple that if you bought it in bags unless you bought it by the pallet from a wholesaler. If you don't have a pick up most of them will deliver but there will be a "truck charge". However, for a job your size I'd pay the truck charge rather than making 12 pick up loads. Likely they also sell bulk compost and so you can buy a yard of compost as well to mix into the top layer, but that goes in after the soil so that is worth doing with a pick-up (1/2 ton or 3/4 ton to haul a full yard). Again check and make sure they don't use sewage sludge. If you have access to good soil elsewhere in your yard you can shave some of that off by wheel barrowing a few loads into the new plot. However, there is no getting around it you are going to need a lot of dirt to fill a bed that large. I went through 4 cubic yards this year filling a bunch of new large containers and in building my new bed.

So, the order the materials go in (after prepping the area by loosening it with a rototiller and raking out the sod and weeds):

Cinder Blocks or rock: (this is optional as you can build a mounded raised bed without a hard barrier wall). You'll want to put the bulk soil and whatnot down first if you are going to use a Rototiller - which I would recommend for a bed your size.

Soil (about 10 to 12 cubic yards) Rake out and level in the bed. If you get this from another part of your yard to save money and it is heavy clay like mine then you'll want to add 5 or 10 bags of sand this first year.

Compost About 1 to 2 cubic yards. Rake out evenly over the top of the bed.

About 1/2 to 1 cubic yards of coir fiber - for moisture retention and loosening any clays in the soil. The cheapest is to again buy bulk if you can - my organic supply store sells it in 3 cubic foot compressed bricks which you add warm water to, to expand out. THIS IS NOT COCOA SHELLS WHICH ARE POISONOUS TO DOGS AND CATS. Coir fiber is made from shredded coconut shells and is not poisonous to pets. Make sure you know what you are getting.

Chicken manure about 5 1.5 cubic foot sacks. Chicken Manure is a good natural fertilizer, although I don't rely on it alone. Most Chicken Manures are not fully composted - exceptions are Stutzman Farms and Whitney Farms which are my preferred brands here. You can tell the difference - if not fully composted it is going to stink like chicken shit for about 2 weeks. Rake out evenly over the top of the bed.

Steer Manure (Optional but it is cheap and works well with tomatoes and strawberries) about 20 cubic feet. Rake out evenly over the top of the bed.

A 50 pound bag of Gaia Green Glacial Rock Dust (You might have to call around to find this - best bet is an organic farm supply store). This is to boost the mineral content of your soil and it contains many necessary and needed trace elements while still being relatively cheap. Rake out evenly over the top of the bed. (You'll add one of these every year to remineralize your soil from last years growing. Same is true for the upper layer of compost and chicken manure and optional fertilizer.)

Optional but reccomended - a 25 or 50 pound bag of good Organic Fertilizer - again raked over the top of the bed.

Now comes the hard work - work in all of the things you laid on top of each other into the upper 6 inches of the soil. A Rototiller is handy for this - particularly for a bed this size. In future years you can work it with a rake to not disturb the natural layering of the soil but in the first year you just want to get it set up and everything mixed in with the fewest blisters.

Pour yourself a tall Lemonade.

Drink the Lemonade.

Now enjoy the satisfaction of knowing ou won't have to do this again next year.

Basic Tool List of Essential Tools:

A round Shovel.

A Square Shovel.

A good garden rake - don't scrimp on this as a good rake will last.

A good garden fork - again don't scrimp - buy the best you can afford - Spear and Jackson is the best heirloom fork made, but they're about $60 to $70 these days. Mail Order Source: Lee Valley Tools - see their website. They also sell slightly less expensive but very serviceable forks. A good fork well cared for is a one time purchase.

A good trowel (hand shovel)

A good weeding hoe. I like the "Circle Hoe" for tight beds as you don't kill as many plants or damage their roots.

Optional but handy is what is called a Korean Hand Plow. I have one and it is a great all purpose digger.

Optional: A good potting soil scoop. Makes setting up pots so much easier.

Original_Intent  posted on  2010-06-01   1:44:23 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

Ping to above for your thoughts and anything I might have missed.

Original_Intent  posted on  2010-06-01   1:45:32 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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