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Title: Buy Made in the USA (A Reference)
Source: Devvy.com
URL Source: http://www.devvy.com/made_inthe_usa.html
Published: Sep 18, 2010
Author: Devvy Kidd
Post Date: 2010-09-18 22:07:17 by Original_Intent
Keywords: Buy, Made, in the, USA
Views: 1480
Comments: 15

I make no secret that their are some country's goods which I simply will not buy if I can at all avoid - the main two are Israel and China and I would strongly encourage other people to do the same it is an ethical choice and you vote with your dollars.

However, if at all possible I try to buy U.S. made goods, and that is the reason for this post. I was checking out Devvy Kidd's website today and noticed the "Buy Made in the USA" button/link so I clicked on it. What I found is a long list of companies that either manufacture and sell direct to consumers or who are retailers that deal only in U.S. made goods. So, I thought that it would be a public service for other like minded people.

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#1. To: Original_Intent (#0)

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-09-19   0:41:21 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

You're welcome.

I liked the link to Lehman's. Although I have to admit my favorite wood cook stove among their collection was the British made AGA, but at 6295 plus shipping it is going to stay on the wish list.

Original_Intent  posted on  2010-09-19   0:53:49 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-09-19   10:59:04 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

On heirloom varieties they are all "Open Pollinated". What that means is that they are not hybrids, an unstable cross, and will breed true to type allowing for minor genetic variation and unintended crosses with other varieties of the same type.

So, the answer is that you can save seed from your plants produced this year. A good reference book for that is "From Seed To Seed". Tomatoes are one of the easiest as they are self fertile and Cherry Tomatoes are notorious for this (the formal term is "Parthenocarpic" - meaning that it bears seed producing fruit without cross pollination between at least two varieties - Blueberries are partially so but you'll get a much bigger yield having 2 or more varieties located relatively close together so that the bees visit both and cross pollinate). I had several "volunteers" that I grew out this year - a red cherry and a black plum tomato. Open pollinated carrots are bi-annual meaning they produce seed in the second year not the first. There you have to carefully dig out the ones you've marked for seed, put them point down in sand in a cool but protected place and then re-plant them in Spring to produce seed.

So, having gone the long way around. Unless you actively save seed then you need to buy seed for next year's garden. Tomatoes that drop to the ground will often produce "volunteers" when the seed sprouts in the spring, but you'll get variable results. As well the other reason to buy seed is try new varieties. I have varieties I like growing every year (for Tomatoes it is Stupice and Jaune Flamme) but like this year I grew those along with a couple of varieties of cherry tomatoes and several varieties of larger tomatoes which I had either not grown before or it had been a couple years. My favorite red for this year was a new one, "Clint Eastwood's Rowdy Red", which has a nice full rich flavor that I like. The only knock on it is that the plant is not real big and so the production is only so-so for one plant. Also they are smallish for a medium sized tomato - larger than Stupice but smaller than Sioux (my long favorite mid-season red tomato and the improved version Super Sioux, Super Lakotah for the PC, are more productive with the same great flavor - origninally released by the University of Nebraska in 1944).

Different Seed types have different lifespans and some can be used for more than one year. Not onions though. After one year they are as dead as a door nail. I have germinated tomato seed as much as 8 years old. It was spotty though. I did 4 starts with 4 seeds each. One produced nothing, one produced all four germinations, one produced three and another two. The rule of thumb on tomatoes is 3 years and the germination rate will go down with each year. Beans are among the longest viable - the record being the recovery of the Anansazi Bean which was done from seeds that were at least 800 or 900 years old. And I am glad that the Univ. of New Mexico was able to do it because it is one of my favorite culinary beans. Hopefully I answered your question without being too prolix.

If you want suggestions on varieties let me know as I have probably grown at least 50 varieties of tomatoes and 20 or so varieties of melons.

Original_Intent  posted on  2010-09-19   12:49:35 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-09-19   16:12:34 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

#13. To: Eric Stratton (#11)

It's going to be a lot smaller than I'd hoped due to HOA restrictions.

I've got a triangular patch of about 150 sq. ft.

What would you plant in it if you were planting for food?

Plants that are either very productive individually such as Tomatoes, Potatoes, cucumbers, Pole Beans, and bush habit squash (Bush Delicata for Winter Squash). Also you'll want to practice succession planting meaning to have a set of winter, Spring, Summer and Fall plants - which can be started in trays or pots. You would be surprised how much food you can grow in that much space with proper management and rotation by season. You might want to consider studying up on the "Square Foot Gardening System" (Good Beginner's Guide Here). The one thing none of them mention is minerals and remineralizing your soil. I highly recommend it and it is done easily by adding ground up glacial rock dust every time you add compost. Also on intensive gardening you need to learn about trellising, which is easy, and use soaker hoses to minimize disease and ensure everything gets enough water - the more intensively you plant the more important this becomes.) Carrots make a good companion planting to tomatoes and Pole Beans or Peas (Telegraph is a good choice for shell peas and Super Sugar Snap for Snap Peas) can be allowed to grow up around the tomato cages. Also layering would be important i.e., tall stuff in back working toward shorter in the front e.g., Tomatoes and Pole Beans in back, squash in the middle, and lettuce up front. That way nothing is starved for sunlight.

As a sample:

Early Spring/Late Winter: Lettuce, Snap Peas, Snow Peas, Kale, and early cabbage.

Mid Spring: Replace the used lettuce with fresh starts already growing in a plug tray. Plant potatoes (they won't come up for a couple of weeks to a month). If needed or wanted plant more Snap Peas, plant bulbs for early green onions. Leeks - started indoors in a sunny window.

Once all danger of frost is past then Tomatoes, Squash, Compact melons such as Minnesota Midget (not my favorite but they are early, productive, and do not take up as much space as larger varieties), Pole Beans. Another option on melons is to trellis them and grow up not out - same with cucumbers. Good melons for trellising are smaller ones and here I would suggest Emerald Gem (orange flesh), Hero of Lockinge (white flesh), Petit Gris Rennes (orange flesh and luscious but not as productive as Emerald Gem - one year I had 16 melons ripen in one day off of just 4 Emerald Gem plants), Jenny Lind (green flesh), and Eden's Gem a.k.a. Rocky Ford (green flesh). Most of them generally do not get over 2 pounds so are fine for trellising and all have flavor superior to Minnesota Midget - they are the kind of melons you pay premium prices for at gourmet markets. (A tip on trellising melons - use old worn out women's nylons to tie off to the trellis to cradle each melon - that way it doesn't collapse the vine - make sure the trellis is well secured.)

Late Summer: Overwintering Carrots, Kale, Winter Cabbage, Fall Lettuce.

Those are just to give you an idea of what you can do to keep it productive all year round pretty much.

Now as for that pesky HOA there are ways around them without having to be too sneaky. I presume you are allowed to have landscape shrubs so why not have dual use shrubs i.e., something that produces edible fruit? Some examples are Blueberries are both lovely shrubs, come in varying heights, and can be turned into an edible hedge. Ditto Gooseberries. Also decorative pots planted with useful plants like dwarf cherry tomatoes, herbs, strawberries, etc., can be spread around the yard to both look attractive while skirting the attention of the "Yard Police". Consider an attractive rock garden yard feature, that also happens to be planted with Herbs and Alpine Strawberries. French Thyme is a pretty pink flowering, cascading, shrub in Spring and its leaves are a useful seasoning all year. It is also slow growing, I have one that is now about 8 years old tucked into my front garden box (that is supposed to be decorative) right next to the Rosemary which is a pretty gnarly evergreen shrub (although most varieties will not handle an extended freeze so in your climate it would be best in a pot and then brought into a sunny window during extended cold. And of course by using SmartPots you can put a tomato plant or potatoes here and there spread out so that they are relatively unobtrusive and augment your main garden here and there in out of the way sunny spots (use the 20 gallon size for tomatoes and potatoes). Gardener's Supply markets some pretty, and large, self watering pots and the Grow Box or Earth Box are good products that would also be good for hidden delights.

I could add more but I've already spent about an hour and half putting this together so I hope you'll excuse me for now. One thing though - just to re-emphasize - growing intensively requires that you pay a lot of attention to your soil and its nutrients (compost AND minerals) and supplement with a good fertilizer. I tried Algoflash this year and was really impressed at how well it works. We did not have a great growing year this year and my neighbors are all envious at how many ripe tomatoes I have - and that includes the ones that grow their own. The Algoflash is growth stimulant as well as fertilizer and my plants kept growing when the others were not. It is a liquid concentrate so can also be fed through a soaker hose feeder system (called fertigation).

Original_Intent  posted on  2010-09-19 19:25:21 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  

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