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All is Vanity
See other All is Vanity Articles

Title: [LWAN]: South America
Source: LWAN
URL Source: http://www.cjmciver.org/cgi-bin/lwanread.cgi?2005-09-28
Published: Sep 25, 2005
Author: Neil McIver
Post Date: 2005-09-28 18:56:03 by Neil McIver
Keywords: [LWAN]:, America, South
Views: 554
Comments: 10

September 25, 2005

The captain announced we'd remain in a holding pattern until the fog lifted and warned cautiously we may need to divert to another airport. But that didn't matter to me, especially if we went to Cuenca. That's probably the closest city. I'm on an adventure anyway, and the diversion would just be extra spice.

But unfortunately, the fog lifts and we begin our nighttime approach. The city lights below betray the mountainous terrain otherwise hidden in the night. I smile. I'm in South America, in Quito, Ecuador. A country named for its lattitude.

Quito's extraordinary 9000 foot altitude is supposed to make you feel weak but it doesn't feel any different at all. Yet. I seem to have no problems as I carry my luggage around, though I remember to take it easy.

My primary mission is simple. Learn Spanish. And I've got almost 3 months of complete immersion to do it. Three months is the limit in Ecuador without a visa, and I figured I might as well make the most of the plane ticket.

I signed up for a Spanish school and am staying with an Ecuadoran family. A program I found gets me private room and board with 20 hours of one-on-one Spanish instruction for just under $300 a week, and I won't have to cook, clean or do laundry. I see it as learning Spanish for free.

While earning some degree of fluency in Spanish is my primary goal, I'm also quite interested in the the people. What is life like here? What are their politics and what rights to they enjoy? How's the medical care? Their economy? Their standard of living? What do they think of us Americans? And of course I have to stop using that word.... they're Americans too. Coming from a country without a singular name, I'll have to get used to another term to describe the people of the USA. Yes, the familiar slogan "Proud to be American" might confuse a lot of people in South America.

I get to my host family around midnight and converse with them. The husband knows the most English, and they are very pleasant and the home is quite different from what I'm used to. It's got character. I'm shown to my guest room and it's quite adequate. No it's not a 5-star Ritz hotel but it's not supposed to be. It's instead probably something quite typical of Quito living which is what I want. I marvel at the electrical element on the showerhead which heats water as it's used, with the temperature controlled by the flow rate. Adequate, and because it's adequate, it's also good.

As I turn in for the night, I hear through the cool night silence a solitary dog down the street letting loose an occasional angry bark. A bit closer a cat gives a sudden cry. The bed is warm and comfortable and I feel delighted because I have everything I need.

Tomorrow is my first day of school and I'm looking forward to it.

Neil McIver


A view from Quito, Ecuador


A view from Parque El Ejido Quito, Ecuador (2 images)

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#1. To: Neil McIver (#0)

Hey Neil glad you got there safe and sound.. good luck on your adventure.

'Catch the Wind'

Zipporah  posted on  2005-09-28   18:59:12 ET  Reply   Trace   Private Reply  


#2. To: Neil McIver (#0)

I marvel at the electrical element on the showerhead

You'll get over it.


Hey, Meester,wanna meet my seester?

Flintlock  posted on  2005-09-28   19:40:08 ET  Reply   Trace   Private Reply  


#3. To: Neil McIver, Flintlock (#0)

Sounds like fun, wish I had the stones to pick up and do something like that. Is the LWAN thing a problem?

People have made fun of me for not carrying a passport even though I've never left or made plans to leave the contiguous 48.

"A functioning police state needs no police." - William S. Burroughs

Dakmar  posted on  2005-09-28   20:01:56 ET  Reply   Trace   Private Reply  


#4. To: Neil McIver (#0)

this was fun to read. i'm looking forward to regular briefings! ;)

christine  posted on  2005-09-28   20:11:02 ET  Reply   Trace   Private Reply  


#5. To: Neil McIver (#0)

we respect and admire your decision. and we may even envy you for going through with it.

I think ecuador is a great place to live. and you don't even need a number to live there.

Red Jones  posted on  2005-09-28   22:10:01 ET  Reply   Trace   Private Reply  


#6. To: Red Jones, Neil McIver, Christine (#5)

you don't even need a number to live there.

Actually Red, you need two numbers.

First you need your national ID card or Cedula which also classifies you according to factors like education. Yes, you can officially be a "segunda" or second class Citizen.

You also need you census card or "Censo", I know the Censo has to be renewed annually, I'm not sure about the Cedula.

Anyway, the cops can ask you for these documents about anytime they want and if you don't have them, or if they're out of date you've got a big problem amigo, a big problem.

None of this applies to tourists but it does resident expats. Tourists are required by law to ALWAYS have their passports on them but I hear a photocopy will do.


Hey, Meester,wanna meet my seester?

Flintlock  posted on  2005-09-28   22:35:31 ET  Reply   Trace   Private Reply  


#7. To: Flintlock (#2)

You'll get over it.

Oh, I don't know about that, Tom. It's a really groovy device.

Pinguinite for Pinguins

Neil McIver  posted on  2005-09-29   18:17:09 ET  Reply   Trace   Private Reply  


#8. To: christine (#4)

Thanks, chrissy. More's a comin'.

And I talked to Russell. The ball should be in his court now.

Pinguinite for Pinguins

Neil McIver  posted on  2005-09-29   19:07:56 ET  Reply   Trace   Private Reply  


#9. To: Red Jones (#5)

Well, my current plan is to be here through December, at which time I'll return to the (ahem) Land of the Free. Any further decision to return in more dramatic fashion *will* wait until later.

But it's very good to be here and be able to make comparisons and talk to people. Running into Europeans as well here at the school which is an extra bonus.

Pinguinite for Pinguins

Neil McIver  posted on  2005-09-29   19:12:59 ET  Reply   Trace   Private Reply  


#10. To: All (#7)

I was being sarcastic, BTW. I do marvel that they even have something like that, and comfortable temperature flow rate is not quite that of Niagara falls.

There may not be a water heater in the house, unless you count the stove. There is no heating or AC, but the temperature only fluxuates through the day, not the year.

Pinguinite for Pinguins

Neil McIver  posted on  2005-09-29   19:20:16 ET  Reply   Trace   Private Reply  


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