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Title: I Find Three Bottle Caps and a Rusty Nail
Source: [None]
URL Source: [None]
Published: Nov 14, 2010
Author: Turtle
Post Date: 2010-11-14 14:28:29 by Turtle
Keywords: None
Views: 1992
Comments: 63

For years I have been picking up metal off of the ground when I walk my dog -- aluminum and tin cams.

The aluminum cans are almost always Bud Light and Pepsi which hoosiers through out of the pickup trucks.

I take the stuff to the recycling center every three months and get about $50, which fills up my van and also gets me a quart of oil.

Today, when I took my dog for a walk, I found three Bud Light bottle caps and a nusty nail, which goes into the steel/iron box.

Wire is the most profitable, since it's copper. I don't find much of that, but as for the Bud Light/Pepsi...the hicks must love that stuff. They throw the cans into the street, sidewalks, and people's front yards.

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#1. To: Turtle (#0)

I take the stuff to the recycling center every three months and get about $50, which fills up my van and also gets me a quart of oil.

Why does your van use so much oil? Can't you personally fix the issue? My GOD, your garage and/or street or driveway must appear as a local slum.

buckeroo  posted on  2010-11-14   14:56:50 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#15. To: buckeroo, Turtle (#1)

Why does your van use so much oil? Can't you personally fix the issue? My GOD, your garage and/or street or driveway must appear as a local slum.

That reminds me, I need to check the oil in my POS. Leaky valve guides.

farmfriend  posted on  2010-11-15   11:27:05 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#16. To: farmfriend (#15)

Leaky valve guides.

So when you start it up, billows of smoke? Classic sign of worn value guides.

Turtle  posted on  2010-11-15   11:28:45 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#17. To: Turtle, buckeroo (#16)

So when you start it up, billows of smoke? Classic sign of worn value guides.

Yep. course it only has 280,000 miles on it.

My registration is up this month and it will have to be smogged this year. Even if it passes on emissions it won't pass because the engine light is on. I don't plan on sinking any money into this car.

farmfriend  posted on  2010-11-15   11:48:23 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#24. To: farmfriend (#17)

deleted

Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-11-15   14:05:44 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#27. To: Eric Stratton (#24)

If you have maintained your truck since the beginning of time with recommended methods of tests, observations and maintenance intervals AND you still enjoy the vehicle AND there are no obvious problems why buy a replacement vehicle?

When you buy a new vehicle, typically you have HUGE changes in costs for vehicle registration and insurance while giving away your trade-in; dealers take your trade-in for resale unless they can make a profit and that means YOU take the hit on their appraisal value.

buckeroo  posted on  2010-11-15   14:32:29 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#30. To: buckeroo (#27)

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-11-15   14:49:44 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#34. To: Eric Stratton (#30)

But my thinking is that w/ a new tranny, when the engine goes, why not simply buy a new/used engine and essentially a new lease on life re: the truck.

Sounds like you are half-way there already; assuming, I interpret your statement correctly.

buckeroo  posted on  2010-11-15   16:17:31 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#38. To: buckeroo (#34)

deleted

Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-11-15   16:35:24 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#39. To: Eric Stratton (#38)

Halfway to where?

I think you said that you have already replaced the transmission which is a major job.

But my thinking is that w/ a new tranny, when the engine goes, why not simply buy a new/used engine and essentially a new lease on life re: the truck.

A good value is to consider a rebuilt engine (evaluate a new engine but that may not be possible since you have an 11 year old truck) with some of the earlier features you have (power steering pump replaced and all that other stuff).

buckeroo  posted on  2010-11-15   18:49:51 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#41. To: buckeroo (#39)

deleted

Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-11-15   18:57:12 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#42. To: Eric Stratton, farmfriend (#41)

Maybe I'll get 400K outta this one.

That would be cool and a testament to maintaining your own vehicle.

I have several cars; my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee has 90K miles on it and runs like a top; the engine is always clean; every 6 months I pressure clean the engine and the undercarriage. I maintain it myself with the exception of areas that I consider too complicated or requiring specialized tools but for general maintenance I do ALL the work.

I have found that most repair shops don't do as they say.... as minor as an oil change: they don't perform the work at all or they over-tighten the oil filter or they over-tighten the oil plug or the oil is not as ordered such as a synthetic blend . This is irritating because I have to take the car back and I don't like corrective action based on negligence or poor workmanship. Similarly, with the auto dealer service center.... a total ripoff. I shall be brief, but let me cite two examples with a Jeep dealer (the place I purchased the car) :

1) For a tune up (all they really do is change the plugs) they want over two hundred bucks. Forget that... in the Jeep, the plugs are easy to get to based on the coil rack and for 12 bucks I can do it in about one-half of an hour.

2) Intermittent problems: they can't solve or you have to continuously take the vehicle back for another "diagnostic" (ad infinitum) .... the Jeep's engine light went on about 60,000 miles and after paying over 500 bucks for nothing but wasted time and energy... over 2,000 miles later, I decided to look into it myself. I am not a mechanic so I purchased a Haynes book on the vehicle and identified the systems that could cause it. It turned out to be the Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS) and although inexperienced at performing the work, I replaced the part (and only that one part) for about 30 bucks after 2 hours of actual work. I suppose a skilled expert could have performed the work faster but that's OK because I take notes on what I remove and disconnect and ensure every bolt, nut and connections are properly replaced by continuous review.

In conjunction with the Haynes Repair Manual I performed general Internet searches to collaborate the suspicious issue based on the error codes (OBD) that most vehicles have today.... and VOILA! I fixed the issue ... no mechanics and no further grief.

If Farmfriend can read her OBD code on her car, I wager we can track the problem down faster than some suggestion she already thinks some sort of engine overhaul. We shall see.

buckeroo  posted on  2010-11-15   19:41:11 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#54. To: buckeroo (#42)

deleted

Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-11-16   0:13:12 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#58. To: Eric Stratton, farmfriend (#54)

Thanks for that post.

You are welcome, Eric.

Yeah, I agree, and you can go to the local auto parts shop and they usually have a diagnostic scanner that they'll loan you or simply run the check for you for free.

I have never performed that method and for many reasons, too. But let me say this, since the OBD codes are pre-existing within the vehicle's on-board computer diagnostics memory, it is safe to say you may not require someone else to verify the codes with some sort of pricey equipment and as a result manifest an expert opinion. This is an added plus to doing your own maintenance without outside experts throwing opinions around that often go nowhere.

You shouldn't require specialized OBD equipment to diagnose your vehicle OBD error codes if the engine light turns on. In the case of the 2002 Jeep that I have discussed, the error codes are illuminated through the odometer LED viewing port, if AND only if, after three successive turn-on/off ignition cycles with the car key. All of the codes are slowly and sequentially displayed (the process loops forever until you turn off the ignition switch) so that you can write them down for later analysis and remedial corrective action.

The Haynes Repair Manual doesn't list all the OBD codes in my case. So, I found them at several authoritative websites after a Internet searches. Those same results can then be used for further Internet searches within hundreds of forums around the world. You would be amazed at how collaborative the Internet is towards serious problems/solutions without a lot of sarcasm such as on 4um.

The Haynes Repair Manual is just a starting point for me. I don't regard it as an authoritative vehicle manual; I could easily do that by purchasing the manufacturer's original service/repair manual(s). With the Haynes Repair Manual, I have the nomenclature of the various systems of and about the vehicle that I am interested in at my fingertips. That is all I need for those further Internet searches that don't work with... "why is my engine light on" ..... which can take trillions of hours to diagnose over the Internet. Indeed, the Haynes Repair Manual is just a starting point; it is nothing more than a reference for further discussion as it introduces the proper nomenclature of would otherwise be called a "thingy" or a "doo-dad" or a "whacha-might-call-it".

And that is important to note, too. The OBD code system is just about your vehicle emissions system. It is worthless for many other issues.

Still, the goal is to put you in complete control of your own decisions; not a salesman, not a mechanic and not some "hick" throwing beer cans out of a truck (as this thread started out). By exercising that same informative control based on solid data you save time money and grief ... irrespective of your own decision.

If you have owned your vehicle since it was new then you also know how it has been operated and maintained and this very same history ensures a method of added value towards your existing truck particularly if you have operated the vehicle in other than harsh conditions and ensured regular maintenance.

For Farmfriend, she should find the exact OBD codes that are illuminating her "engine light." It could be a separate issue altogether other than excessive oil consumption. More than that, without repairing that same condition of the "engine light" she won't be able to easily sell the vehicle as the new owner MUST pass the state emissions tests and diagnostics so the good old days of kicking a lemon to someone is over unless the vehicle is given away for free.

buckeroo  posted on  2010-11-16   12:12:55 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


#59. To: buckeroo (#58)

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Eric Stratton  posted on  2010-11-16   12:20:38 ET  Reply   Untrace   Trace   Private Reply  


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