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Resistance See other Resistance Articles Title: BASIC LIST OF SUGGESTED ITEMS FOR LONG TERM SURVIVAL Some people are saying we should prepare for at least 7 days, but the way things go after a hurricane, tornado, floods, loss of electricity and the fact that these disasters will continue and perhaps even get worse in coming years according to trends, one week is not enough. Some have said 7 years, but that seems too long so do what you can. Be sure to use the older stocked goods first and replace them with new. Otherwise you will end up with all old food you might not even want to eat. Always check canned tomatoes for spoilage, as even in the can they can spoil. Most other foods last a long time. 1. Water stored to last at least 5 days, at one gallon per day per person. (If you buy cases of l/2 litres - you can buy enough to last a couple of months) Recently, people are saying that water in plastic is toxic, so store water in glass if possible. 2. A good canteen and basins to catch rainwater. Also have a good supply of water purification tablets or bleach, or plan to boil your water. The surest way to purify water is to boil it for 15 to 20 minutes. 3. Food, per person, for one year: Wheat - 300 lbs. Rice - 100 lbs. Beans, Peas, Lentils, 50 lbs. each Honey or Sugar - 60 lbs. Salt - 3 lbs. (Get 6 lbs to be sure) (See below) Cayenne Pepper - 1 large can Herbal Seasonings Dried Milk - 80 lbs. Peanut Butter - 50 lbs. Dried Fruit Canned food, or dried (ready to mix) food Oatmeal - 50 lbs. Alfalfa Seeds - 10 lbs. Sprouts (see below) Canned Sardines, tuna, salmon If you have a baby, include formula and baby food. If you have pets, you will want food for them as well. Store food needs in waterproof containers, capable of also protecting against insects and mice. Use Steel garbage cans or plastic 5 gallon buckets. The vacuum sealed method is also very good. If you are storing nuts or oatmeal, they smell and taste bad after a while, so they will need to be rotated. For all storing of food, the rule is: use up the old and replace with the new. NOTE; I recommend freezing nuts for storage. 4. Manual grain grinder 5. Medicines - Assemble a standard first aid kit, with a comprehensive first aid book. Also include things for headache, upset stomach, congestion, colds, such as Pepto Bismol, aspirin, Tylenol, Excedrin, disinfectants, prescription medicines; and anything else you use regularly. Include vitamins, apple cider vinegar, honey, garlic, sage tea for colds, mint tea, golden seal, brandy (good as medicine), herbal tinctures, hops, catnip (which helps you sleep), herbs for cooking, including dried garlic and onions, cayenne pepper, cumin, basil, and coriander and salt. After you've been eating rice and beans for a few days, they'll need lots of help to make them taste good. Also learn about herbal medicines and if you have space, grow some of your own - most are perennials and once you get the plant growing, its yours for as long as you take care of it. See: http://www.earthmountainview.com for suggestions on herbs and growing your own food. 6. Toothbrushes, baking soda or salt to brush with, a good supply of dental floss (which can be used for other things as well) and another items you need for good tooth care. 7. Extra eye glasses 8. For a camp kitchen you need: camp stove with good supply of fuel (in wooded areas, all you need are rocks and a flat tin or grill), pots and pans, plates and bowls (unbreakable) (you can use Army surplus camp kits) cooking utensils, knife, forks, spoon, spatula, biodegradable dish soap, towels, bucket to carry water, dish pan, matches dipped in wax and stored in waterproof containers. 9. A good tent, sleeping bag for each person, extra blankets, sleeping pads, and ground cloth - and another waterproof tarp to cover your camp gear. 10. Clothing - Have clothing for all weather. Include a good warm coat and sweaters, hat for rain or shine, rain gear, a good pair of hiking boots that will take years to wear out, warm winter underwear, wool socks, summer socks (don't wear socks with holes in them as they cause blisters) (learn to darn socks) work gloves, hats, and whatever else you need for warmth and protection. 11. Hunting equipment. Hunting might be necessary for survival in some situations. Be prepared both with equipment and knowledge of how to use the equipment. First choice of a gun is a .22 caliber rifle. You can kill anything up to a deer with it. Purchase 500 rounds of .22 hollow point bullets. If you are not a good marksman, then get a 30-30 or 30-06 and at least 200 shells. A shotgun comes in handy for shooting things flying or running. The bow and arrow is still one of the best weapons. You will have to practice, and of course, you can never run out of shells. If you want to be unseen and unheard by unfriendly people, this would be a good idea. 12. Fishing equipment. - Get basic equipment. Include assorted sized hooks, fish lines, sinkers, etc. Fishing takes time, but if you are moving toward long-term survival, time is something you may have plenty of. 13. Wood stove. Get one with a secondary burn chamber. It uses less wood and creates less pollution. Get one with a flat top for cooking on. 14. Chain saw, extra gas and oil, spark plugs, chain, etc. 15. Bow saw and a tool to set the teeth with, extra blades. 16. Skill saw (for when you have electricity) 17. Axe, hatchet, files. 18. Spitting maul 19. Flashlights with extra batteries and bulbs; candles; propane, kerosene, or Coleman lantern with plenty of fuel, and extra wicks and mantles. 20. A good pocket knife and a sharpening stone. 21. Hammers, assorted nails, assorted screws, wrench set, pliers, wire cutters, screw drivers, pipe wrench, 200 feet of 1/4 inch nylon rope, duct tape. 22. Shovels, spades, hoes, and rakes with strong teeth 23. Charging system - wind, water, or solar - to pump water and provide electricity 24. Backpack - Waterproof. If you are forced to relocate, it may be all that goes with you. 25. Compass. 26. Up-to-date maps of the area you want to live in. This will show you land and water away from human habitation. 27. A 4 wheel drive vehicle with all the proper tools for maintaining it. Extra parts. 28. Tire chains for snow. 29. Radio. Have more than one. electrical and battery operated. Get a crank operated one. (See C. Crane company for this information) You'll want to know what's going on in the outside world. 30. Soap for laundry and bathing. Also learn how to make your own and have those supplies handy. 31. Natural insect repellent. 32. A mirror. You'll want to see yourself, but you can use it for signaling as well. 33. Extra toilet paper. Also keep old newspapers and telephone directories for emergencies. (Hint: if you need to use old newspaper, crinkle it up and straighten it out several times first -- it's much softer!) 34. Female needs - (Use cloth pads you can wash) 35. Baby diapers. (Use cloth you can wash) Older kids can go bare bottom when necessary. Indians used moss and grass when necessary. 36. A basic sewing kit (needles and threads) 37. Safety pins 38. Swiss Army knife 39. Bobby pins (you can work wonder with these) 40. Pencils and paper 41. Musical instruments (harmonica, flute, guitar) to lift the spirit 42. Crazy glue 43. Patch kit In the survival sense, think warm clothing, think fleece. Those fleece throws (the single blankets) are great gifts, roll up nice and compact and are very useful as blankets, capes, padding for sleeping on the ground, tablecloths or even hung up on a leanto to break the wind. By the time everyone adds their ideas to your list we will all need a U-haul on the back of that 4 wheel drive vehicle. Hey not a bad idea to learn how to build your own trailer, all you need is a spare axle, couple of wheels, a hitch and some wood. Peace - Marguerite 44. Lots of good books to read. 45. .22 ammunition - amount stored should be 5000 rounds, not 500. It is small, inexpensive, and can be used as barter material if need be. 46. .30-30/.30-06 - other calibers to seriously consider are the .308, .270, .243, .223, and 7.62x39. Many people, myself included can't handle the recoil of a .30-06 (and I don't like .30-30). There are more rifles chambered in the calibers I mentioned than I can list, and all are good. It all depends on what you can afford. The amount of ammo one should store should be a minimum 1000 rounds, not 200. 47. A sturdy, fixed blade hunting knife should always be include. You can find these from Buck, Gerber, SOG, Camillus, Uncle Henry, and many others. I prefer the Camillus Pilot/Survival or Marine Combat knives. These have been made under contract for the US military for about four decades and have stood the test of time. They are also inexpensive ($25 and $35 respectively) so if one is lost or happens to break, you don't get as upset as you would should your Gerber BMF ($240) bite the dust. 48. Many people, myself included, have not been able to master the use of a sharpening stone. But with the use of a sharpening kit, such as those by Lansky, we can bring up a very sharp edge on our knives. Great for use on kitchen cutlery as well. 49. A pocket tool, such as those by Leatherman, Gerber, SOG, et al, are much more versatile than the Swiss Army Knife and their prices are comparable to the more expensive Swiss Army Knives. In the meantime, I will hang on to my SAK until I can afford a Leatherman Super Tool. (I still have a house to run.) 50. 200' to 500' of 550# test Paracord is a great addition to your supplies, especially when the 1/4" nylon cord/rope is too thick or not the right tool for the job. 51. Boiling water may be effective, but it is not the best way to purify water. Boiling removes the oxygen content and causes it to be flat. For EMERGENCY purposes only one can use un-scented household bleach to purify water, but you should use only 1/2 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water (1 tsp should the water be cloudy). The best method is to use HTH dry chlorine (65%), which can be purchased in bulk at stores like WalMart, Target, KMart, etc. (Also a great barter item.) The amount to use is 1/4 teaspoon (0.03 ounce) per 300 gallons for a 0.5 ppm of chlorine. 52. One can also get a complete cookset...cookpots, frying pan, coffee pot, plates, and cups...of good or better quality in the outdoor department of WalMart, Kmart, Target, etc., or a good outdoor supply store that sells camping equipment. 53. One should have two or three pairs of good hiking boots (U.S. issue combat boots are still the best and only cost $60-$80 mail order) in their closet and one dozen pair bootlaces per pair of boots (laces also come in handy for short term temporary uses, too). Should the long-term effect be much longer than anticipated, then the extra boots will be needed. Also a couple pair of good cross-trainers or running shoes would be advisable. 54.You should always have a handful of disposable lighters in addition to matches. They come in quite handy and you don't have to be a smoker to keep them on hand. They are inexpensive and take up very little room. 55. When we packed our food we used food-grade diatomaceous earth for the grains. All grain already has the eggs of insects in it - it's just the natural way. When they hatch out the diatomaceous earth either smothers them because the particles are so tiny or if the larvae is bigger or soft-skinned it dries them up. I bake my own bread and grind my own flour. In some of the jars where we didn't use diatomaceous there is an occasional weevil and I grind it up - if folks eat animals then a bug or two shouldn't be a problem. Diatomaceous earth is full of minerals and is a safe, non-toxic way to treat your food. You don't want to breathe it because the particles are so tiny but then, you don't want to inhale flour, either. It's real cheap, too. We use 1/4 cup for a 5-gallon bucket of grain. We half-fill the bucket, sprinkle 1/2 the dust on, put the lid on, roll the bucket all around, take the lid off, fill the bucket with more grain to the top, add the rest of the dust, roll it around and you're done. You can do it in smaller batches, too. In gallon jars and then pour it into the bucket. An added step would be to re-open and add a small piece of dry ice to the top. (I like to put it on a piece of broken pottery to keep it from "burning" the grain.) Let the lid rest on top while the dry ice sublimates into gaseous carbon dioxide and displaces bug-breathable air. Then seal tightly. ALSO: ..I suggest sealing your bags, boxes etc. to keep from getting damp, then freezing them for 3 days..it kills the eggs. I have done this with everything I buy..it works. I have used rice, flour, etc. that is months old (re-stocking as I use). I'm sure it will work for animal feed as well. You can also drop a couple of Bay leaves in since most bugs hate. Bay leaves are good to use in almost any food storage situation Another good storage trick for grains and legumes is to use oxygen absorber packs that can be purchased wherever food storage supplies are sold. No oxygen = no living things, and no oxidation of the contents or the container. To avoid 6 legged critters, vacuum seal your food (see Tilia Foodsaver) and store in 5 gallon plastic buckets with the snap on lids. Or, store food directly in the 5 gallon buckets and pay to have the buckets nitrogen injected. Costs a couple of bucks a bucket. Either of these methods will kill existing critters and prevent future contamination. Second to vacuum sealing, you can use zip-lock bags. Fill the bag, lower it into a sink full of water until the water is just to the zip- lock. Seal the bag. Remove and dry the bag off. The water pressure pushes a lot of the extraneous gases (air) out of the bag. Rats can, but won't gnaw into the 5 gallon buckets unless they have a reason to, like the odor of of something yummy on the other side. Properly sealed, a 5 gallon buckets should be odorless. Rats require 3 things to survive, food, water and shelter. Remove any one of these three things and the rat population disappears. I have used boric acid effectively for years to keep away roaches, along with Roach Prufe. The last place I was in had ants before I brought in food. One place I had and didn't prepare very many meals, had neither roaches nor ants, but I brought in weevils from the store, and they ate everything resembling a carbohydrate. 56. MAKING DO: . Stock up on kids clothing from the 2nd hand stores, jeans, sweats, warm winter clothing, and if you can't get to a store for any reason, you should have plain white/beige muslin cloth to make longs skirts & shirts once your regular clothing is gone.....but then we will also need to learn how to make clothing out of sheep's wool and grasses. You can make strong sandals out of tires so keep a few around and learning to work leather is a good idea too. There are great leather catalogs you can send for and check them out. Get a couple of old bikes too. Also get extra tubes & stuff to fix them with. Also pick up a few "fake" furs at the used clothing stores to use for covering. Or get real fur, but probably will cost more. You can get wool blankets at the Am Vets & Goodwill stores. 57. RAISING YOUR OWN CHICKENS: Here's a great idea for your meat chickens. You might want to consider feeding your chickens nothing but sprouted wheat if you don't free-range your birds. However, free-ranged chickens and their eggs are healthier to eat. Buy wheat and soak it in a bucket of water overnight. Drain off the water (give it to the chickens) and let the bucket sit for 3 or 4 days. Rinse the wheat twice a day. Once the little root pokes out it can be fed to the chickens and will have so much more vibrational energy (or spark of life) and nutrition than the unsprouted wheat kernel had. Chickens fed only on unsprouted wheat will dress out to about 8 to 9 pounds each--this sounds incredible but it's really true. If you are going to raise chickens for meat it would be interesting to try this method. Chickens fed the regular way average 5 to 6 pounds on average. The sad truth is that store-bought chicken is mushy and tasteless and of course, you get all the hormones and chemicals the chicken ate. When you taste your first home-raised chicken meat you will be in awe. Chickens raised on the sprouted wheat taste even better. These days, anything you can get that is organic is healthier than anything you buy in a grocery store. Buying at local farm markets is preferable. Always ask if the food is organic before buying. Even if you don't eat your chickens this idea can be considered for the "after time" when perhaps you might be scrambling for something nutritious to feed your birds. 58. MONEY? What good will money be? Greenback are usually the first thing to become worthless in a sinking society. Gold, silver and gems are what are needed after the governments all collapse. 59 - SALT: Salt is scarce in wet climates away from the ocean. The only natural source in such places is mineral springs. Vegetarian animals need salt and animals like deer and elk and mountain goats will go to a lot of trouble to get it. Porcupines need even more sodium than most in order to survive all the excess potassium they get from eating pine bark. Thus, to find salt in the wilderness, find out where the animals get it. I once found what seemed to be too many deer trails in a certain area of forest, and after exploring a bit found that they all converged on a mineral spring. This particular spring was not shown on any geological survey map and was pretty much trampled into a mud-wallow by the deer and elk, but in a pinch a person could dig it out and get salty water. Note it is also a good place to get deer and elk, and maybe indian arrow-heads. Of course some mineral springs have poisonous amounts of minerals like arsenic in them too, so you're taking a bit of a gamble with any non-tested mineral water. 60. SPROUTS - Don't overlook sprouting as a great source of food in time to come. For families with financial constraints buying even very large amounts of seeds to sprout is affordable. You can live entirely on sprouts. The seeds stay viable for many years and are packed with nutrition and living, vibrating energy for your body. This is a "living" food vs. a dead food. If you have little storage space and few dollars you may want to learn more about sprouting. Practice now, making and using sprouts. You can do it simply: for alfalfa sprouts (the most common) just use a tablespoon of seeds, soak them in some water in a jar over night. The next day pour off the water. The health food stores have a 3- piece lid kit to screw onto any wide-mouth canning jar. After you pour off the water invert the jar on an angle upside down (I use a little dish to set it in). Rinse those same sprouts twice a day, morning and night. They don't need the sun to sprout. After 2 or 3 days they will have all sprouted and you can set the jar in a sunny window if you wish to "green" them up for use in salads or eat out of hand. We always drink the rinse water because it's packed with vitamins and minerals. Or use this water to water your plants. Or for your pet's water. Walton's has a sprout variety pack that's already vacuum packed and has lots of different kinds of sprout seeds. We bought ours back in 1997 and they are still sprouting great. Some of the bigger seeds will make really big, long sprouts. They taste the best when eaten young, though. Older sprouts tend to taste somewhat bitter. A sprout can actually be eaten anytime the tiny little root appears. We usually wait a few days, though. It will be fun to learn about sprouts and a great comfort again, if folks want very much to prepare but don't have a lot of money. 61. CONTAINERS - You can get 5 gal. sturdy plastic containers at the bakery shops as well as smaller sizes. Fill EACH one with things such as Medical supplies, clothing, food, ammo, survival books, reading books, Classic books, tools, etc....and don't forget all the family pictures. There is a process where you can put a picture on a piece of metal & it will last for hundreds of years. If you have questions, comments, or want to add to this list, e-mail mailto:Dee777@aol.com Chapter 3: Preparing Your Basic Survival Stash * Food Storage * Water Storage and Purification * Survival Shelters If you've given any thought to survival, you know the big three -- food, water and shelter -- are the foundation of any long-term survival plan. If you prepare to provide these three items for yourself and loved ones, you're farther ahead than probably 90 percent of the public. Many would say water is the most important of the three, but we'll address them in the order above: Food, water and shelter. Food Storage You may be able to survive a few weeks or even a month without food, but why would you want to? Without food, you will become weak, susceptible to illnesses, dizzy and unable to perform survival-related tasks. Sure, water may be more critical to short-term survival, but it's much easier for even the unskilled survivalist to find water in the wild (the safety and purity of the water is another story, but we'll tackle that next). This section will deal with several key areas: * How much food do you need? o Why so much food? o Using and storing traditional, commercial foods * Rotating foods o Baking items * Special "survivalist" foods * Home-made survival foods * Hunting and gathering in the wild How Much Food do you Need? Here's the short answer: You can never have too much food stored away for hard times. How much is the minimum for you and your potential survival situation is an answer you'll have to come up with after reviewing the table you developed in Chapter 1. (You did do that exercise, didn't you?) Will three days of food be enough, as many suggest? Or do you need a year's worth? Captain Dave can't tell you what's best in your situation, but he suggests that two weeks or more is the minimum for anyone in any potential survival situation. One to three months? Now you're talking. A year? Let's hope you never need it. A year may be excessive for most, but hey, better safe than sorry (have you heard that one before?) If you're wondering how you can afford a month's worth of food, see Chapter 7. Why should you stock up on so much food if the worst you're planning to prepare for is a heavy winter storm? Several reasons: * It may take a while for store shelves to be replenished. Think back to the heavy storms that hit the East Coast in the winter of 1995-96. 30 inches in cities such as Washington, D.C., and Philadelphia shut the city down for more than a week. And the trucks carrying supplies were stranded on the side of an interstate highway somewhere in the midwest. * You may be asked to feed friends or neighbors. Think how you'd feel if on the sixth day of the storm you and your family were enjoying a delicious, rich, beef stew while poor old Mrs. Frugal next door was down to a used tea bag and the bread crusts she usually gives the birds? Or what if friends were visiting for the weekend and unable to return home because of the inclement weather, earthquake or other emergency? * Food rarely goes down in price. What you buy now will be an investment in the future. If you shop carefully over time (see Chapter 7) , you can lay in stores of goods on sale or at warehouse club prices. * You will be protected from price gouging. Do you really think the last load of milk and bread into the store before the storm hits will be discounted? Shelves are often cleared out right before a blizzard or hurricane is set to hit. And food isn't the only item likely to be in short supply; one grocery chain reported that when storm warnings went out, they sold more rolls of toilet paper than there were people in the city. Batteries, bottled water, candles and other staples are also going to be in short supply (see the next chapter for more on non-food survival items). * You will be prepared for a crippling blow to our food supply system. As I write this, many are predicting our food supply is tottering on its last legs. Whether its a drought (like we saw in 1996 in Texas and Oklahoma), a wheat blight, the destruction of traditional honey bees necessary for crop fertilization or simply the world's exploding population, they will tell you our food system is falling apart. Captain Dave will let you make up your own mind, but wouldn't a few hundred pounds of red winter wheat and other grains sealed in 5 gallon buckets make you feel better? Let's say you decide to start small and plan to stock up a week's worth of food for your family. While the "survivalist" foods such as MRE's are a great supplement, you should be able to get by for this short a time (a week or two) on the traditional, commercial foods in your larder. This existing food reserve should not include food in your refrigerator or freezer because you cannot count on those items remaining edible for more than a day (fridge) or three (freezer), at most. So half a cow or deer in the freezer is great, but you may have to cook, smoke and/or can it on short notice, should the power be out for a long time. A quick examination of your cupboards and cabinets will tell you how much you need to add to ensure you have enough food for a week. If you have a few packages of pasta, some cans of vegetables, a box of crackers and a jar of peanut butter, you're halfway there. But if you have a habit of dropping by the deli every time you're hungry, or shopping for the evening meal on your way home from work (as many single, urban dwellers do), you'll need to change your habits and stock up. A detailed list of suggestions and food storage information is available in the Food Storage FAQ but you should generally buy canned (including items in jars) or dried foods. Review our list of commercial food items and their suggested storage times when making up your personal list but keep in mind your family's eating habits, likes and dislikes. Also, remember that you may not have access to a microwave and other modern conveniences, so pick food items and packaging that can be prepared on a single burner of a camp stove or even over an open fire. Rotation Systems The main difference between the commercially prepared foods you buy in the grocery store and the specially prepared "survival" foods is the shelf storage. You can't store grocery store items for five to ten years, as you can with specially freeze-dried or sealed foods packed in nitrogen or vacuum sealed. As a result, if you go with a larder full of grocery items, you can't develop your food stash and walk away. You need to rotate your stock, either on an ongoing basis or every two to three months. This will ensure you have fresh food (if you can consider canned and dry food "fresh") and do not waste your food and money. There are many systems for rotating your stock: * Captain Dave finds the easiest is to put newly purchase foods at the rear of the shelf, thus ensuring the oldest food, which will have made it's way to the front, will be consumed first. * You can also number food packages with consecutive numbers (a "one" the first time you bring home spaghetti sauce, a "two" the next, etc.) and eat those with the lowest number first. * If you store your survival stash in a special location, you'll need to physically remove and replace 20 to 25 percent of it every two months (thus ensuring nothing sits for more than eight or 10 months). The materials you remove should be placed in your kitchen for immediate consumption. As a general rule, traditional canned foods should be consumed within a year. For cans with expiration dates, such as Campbell's soups, you may find you have 18 months or two years before they expire. But for cans without a date, or with a code that consumers can't translate, mark them with the date purchased and make sure you eat them before a year passes. Generally, canned foods will not "go bad" over time, unless the can is punctured. But the food will loose its taste, the texture will deteriorate, and the nutritional value drops significantly over time. If you find you have a case of canned peas, for example, that are nine or 10 months old, simply donate the to a soup kitchen, Boy Scout food drive or similar charity. This will keep them from being wasted and give you a tax deductible donation. Baking Simple raw materials for baking, such as flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, oil and shortening, can be assets in a survival situation. With these staple items, you can make everything from pancakes or rolls to breading fresh fish. For those looking for a simpler answer, mixes for muffins, corn bread and pancakes mean you do not need to add eggs or measure ingredients. These ready-made or pre-mixed ingredients can be a boon. Of course, you may need a Dutch oven or griddle for that stove or fireplace. For long-term survival storage, honey stores for years and can replace sugar in recipes. Rather than storing flour or meal, purchase the raw grain and a hand mill. Then you can mill your own flour whenever necessary. Red winter wheat, golden wheat, corn and other grains can be purchased in 45-pound lots packed in nitrogen-packed bags and shipped in large plastic pails. Survival Foods Storing two to four weeks of "commercial" food isn't too difficult. But when you get beyond that, you really need to look at specialized foods prepared specifically for long-term storage. These generally fall into several categories: * Vacuum-packed dried and freeze-dried foods * Nitrogen packed grains and legumes * Specially prepared and sealed foods such as MRE's (Meals, Ready-to-Eat) with a five-to-ten year shelf life All offer one main advantage: long storage life. Some, such as MRE's and packages sold to backpackers, are complete meals. This is handy and convenient, but they tend to be expensive on a per-meal basis. Others, such as #10 cans (about a gallon) of dried items, are usually ingredients which can be used to prepare a full meal. These ingredients include everything from macaroni elbows or carrot slices to powdered milk or butter flavor. Your best bet is a combination of both full-meal entrees and bulk items. As the name implies, MRE's are ideal for a quick, nutritious, easy-to-prepare meal. They are convenient to carry in the car, on a trip or on a hike. They have very long shelf lives (which can be extended by placing a case or two in your spare refrigerator). On the downside, they are very expensive on a per-meal basis and they do not provide as much roughage as you need. (This can lead to digestive problems if you plan to live on them for more than a week or two.) Large canned goods, on the other hand, are difficult to transport. But if you're stocking up your survival retreat (see chapter 2) or planning to batten down the hatches and stay at home, the large canned goods are easy to store and can keep you well-fed for months. While individual cans can be purchased, most popular are sets of multiple items. These are designed to provide a specific number of calories per day (they'll recommend 1,800 per day, but you'll probably want more) for a set period of time, often three months, six months or a year. Remember, however, if you have four people in your family or survival group, purchasing a one-year supply of food will only equate to three months worth for the family. Captain Dave recommends purchasing the largest set of these canned, dried foods your budget can handle. Then supplement the set with items tailored to you and your family or survival group. Also, MREs and MRE entrees are excellent supplements, because prepared sets of #10 cans are primarily vegetables, pasta and grains, while MRE entrees are usually meat-based. You may also want to add a few special items, such as hard candy or deserts, to reward yourself or for quick energy. That's one area where MREs and MRE deserts can be a great supplemental item. It's pretty tough to store pound cake or brownies for several years, but the MRE makers have managed it. They also offer crackers and peanut butter, bread and some great side dishes. While we're on the topic of supplements, don't forget to add vitamins and mineral supplements. Fruits, green vegetables and other items rich in vitamin C and other nutrients may be scarce, so a good multi-vitamin is well worth the space it takes up in your stash. NOTE: Since the guide was written, Captain Dave has started selling long-term survival foods and other related supplies. If you are interested, please visit our Survival Shop. Home Made Survival Foods There's nothing like a cellar full of canned goods you grew and put up. From spaghetti sauce to your own jam, canning goods is a tradition that will come in mighty handy in a survival situation. But Captain Dave doesn't pretend to be an expert. Whenever you're dealing with canning fruits, vegetables or meats, its important to follow the latest specifics from the true experts. (OK, so maybe government isn't all bad.) See our list of links for canners and others looking to preserve food. You can also dry, vacuum-pack and otherwise prepare food for storage. Vacuum pumps are available commercially or can be constructed in your own home. You can use them to seal dried food in mason jars and other containers. When packing foods for storage, you want to eliminate oxygen (which is why a vacuum is so good). Bugs, such as weevils, and other organisms that can destroy your food need the oxygen to live, just as we do. That's why commercial companies who prepare survival food pack grains, cereals, pasta, beans and other food in nitrogen-filled containers. You can accomplish a similar packaging yourself by using dried ice. Simply take the 10 pounds of noodles (or 25 pounds of rice or other dried food) you picked up from the warehouse and put them in an appropriately sized plastic bucket with a lid that can create a good seal. The add several chunks of dried ice. As it sublimates, your bucket will fill with carbon dioxide, which will displace all or most of the oxygen (since carbon dioxide is heavier, the oxygen should rise to the top and out of the bucket). Place the lid on the bucket, but don't seal it all the way until you think the dry ice has completely turned to gas. This is a fine line, since you want to seal it before oxygen starts leaking back into the bucket. Remember, as soon as you open the bucket, whoosh! the air will rush back in. Hunting and Gathering in the Wild Image this scenario: A small nuclear conflict erupts in the Middle East destroying several countries and much of the world's oil supply. Airbursts knock out more than half of the world's satellite communications systems. Due to favorable weather conditions and plain dumb luck, fall-out over the United States is not life threatening -- as it is in part of Europe, Japan and the Far East -- and the EMP damage to our electronic systems is minimal. However life as we know it is disrupted as fuel prices reach $10 and then $20 per gallon. Fruits and vegetables grown in Florida and California can't reach markets in other states. Corn and wheat crops are abundant, but farmers don't have the fuel to run harvesters. And those that do, fill their silos, but the grain can't reach the market. Store shelves are emptied in two days of panicked buying that sees a five-pound bag of flour go from $1.69 to $8.99. The economy goes into a tailspin, and inflation reaches 300 percent in the first two weeks. You're lucky you still have a job, but you wonder how on earth you'll get there without the car. The president tries to regain control of the country, by releasing stocks of food and oil, but it's just a drop in the bucket. In a measure of how bad things have become, he declares marshal law and nationalizes all oil, refineries and oil reserves. Suddenly, Uncle Sam is the only gas station on the block, and they're not pumping for anybody, no matter how much silver you cross their palms with. Riots break out in seventeen major cities and the national guard has to be called out. LA burns (again) as does Philadelphia. There's a national curfew and trouble makers are hauled off to camps. 60 Minutes runs a story on these concentration camps, which nobody ever admitted were in existence, but they experience technical difficulties and the broadcast is cut off in the middle of the story. FEMA becomes a four letter word. Suddenly, the two weeks of food in your larder looks frighteningly small. You wish you had more room on your credit card, but then, smart merchants are only accepting cash. You can't wait for the few tomato plants and cucumbers you have growing in the back yard to bear. But you know it won't be enough. Winter is coming, and the papers say the utilities can't guarantee there will be enough gas or electric to heat peoples' homes. Maybe it's time to look to nature to help feed you. That's great if you are a farmer or have five or more acres of tillable land. But if not, or if it's too late to plant crops, that means a return to hunting, trapping and gathering. If you can identify wild plants that can supplement your existing diet, good for you. If not, better go out and buy a few guide books right away. Get ones with pictures, you'll need them. Just hope everyone else doesn't have the same idea, or berry bushes and apple trees will be stripped clean in seconds. Captain Dave has eaten all sorts of wild plants, from salad greens he probably would have tromped over on any other day to wild mushrooms to the heads of milkweeds (properly prepared, of course). Its not his first choice, but its better than tightening the belt. Captain Dave supports hunting as a great American past time, an important tool in game management and a terrific source to supplement your traditional menu during these good times. But will it be enough to put food on the table during a survival situation? Don't count on it. If you're a hunter, you know how crowded it usually is on opening day. Could you imagine what the local patch of forest would be like if everyone's dinner depended on hunting? How quickly would we strip this continent of all edible game? Planning on fishing? So are all your neighbors. There are some areas of the country where the ratio of people to wildlife will still support sustenance hunting. But for most of us, that's not the case. You may be able to supplement your food supply with some game, but don't count on it. What does Captain Dave recommend you do if the above scenario comes to play? * At the first hint of trouble and rising prices, visit the local food warehouse and grocery stores and buy as much as you can afford. Get the 50 pound bags of rice and the 25 pound bags of flour. Use your credit cards and part of your emergency cash stash, if necessary. * Hunker down at home and protect what is yours. * Keep a low profile and avoid contact with others, except fellow members of your survival group. Avoid trouble and confrontations. * Hope that within six months the country will have recovered or at least stabilized. If not, the population will probably be a lot smaller when winter is over. Food Storage and Preservation Links Food Storage FAQ This tome is a complete guide to storing food for survival needs. It is much more in depth than the above information. Available in both html for on-screen viewing or as a downloadable file. Rec.Food.Preserving and Rec.Food.Preserving FAQ The place to ask questions and learn more about home-preserved foods. According to their charter: Rec.food.preserving is a newsgroup devoted to the discussion of recipes, equipment, and techniques of food preservation. Current food preservation techniques that rightly should be discussed in this forum include canning, freezing, dehydration, pickling, smoking, salting, distilling, and potting. Foodstuffs are defined as produce (both fruits and vegetables), meat, fish, dairy products, culinary and medicinal herbs. Discussions should be limited to home-grown or home-preserved foods. Here are a few more. The site's name generally says it all: Home Canning Tips Captain Dave's Survival Shop Grain Supply Update... By Geri Guidetti Walton Feed's Self Reliance Pages Post Comment Private Reply Ignore Thread Top • Page Up • Full Thread • Page Down • Bottom/Latest
#1. To: All, *US INDUSTRIAL WAR MACHINE* (#0)
Our food supply chain in grocery stores is less than seven days. The average American has less than five days of food stock to survive a national crisis. Do the math.
U.S. Constitution - Article IV, Section 4: NO BORDERS + NO LAWS = NO COUNTRY
When the collapse occurs, probably later this summer, the stores will be empty and ablaze in a matter of hours. The pigs will be on the streets killing anything that moves.
They will be joined by NATO troops from all over the world, plus Mexico and Canadian soldiers. A recent survey said that 30% of US Marines are fully prepared to fire on American civilians. The stage is set.
U.S. Constitution - Article IV, Section 4: NO BORDERS + NO LAWS = NO COUNTRY
A one-cock pellet rifle can launch a .177 caliber pellet at 11-1200fps and it's almost silent. Dirt-cheap ammo and useful in urban settings, and elsewhere.
Somewhere in Kenya, a village is still missing its idiot.
Guns, cigars, porn, booze, a harem.
“I do not love the bright sword for its sharpness, nor the arrow for its swiftness, nor the warrior for his glory. I love only that which they defend” - J.R.R. Tolkien
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The relationship between morality and liberty is a directly proportional one. "Only a virtuous people are capable of freedom. As nations become corrupt and vicious, they have more need of masters." - Ben Franklin
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The relationship between morality and liberty is a directly proportional one. "Only a virtuous people are capable of freedom. As nations become corrupt and vicious, they have more need of masters." - Ben Franklin
Mine is scoped, and from a rest, I can go hole in hole across the back yard; fifteen yards or so.
Somewhere in Kenya, a village is still missing its idiot.
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The relationship between morality and liberty is a directly proportional one. "Only a virtuous people are capable of freedom. As nations become corrupt and vicious, they have more need of masters." - Ben Franklin
I have a Gamo pellet rifle like you described. It took a squirrel at 100 feet.
~~~~~~~ I'm all set. I've got a watermaker, fishing gear, all the Road Warrior movies on DVD and....oh yeah 10 gals of "Chef Kaffir-Louie's" Longpig BBQ sauce and marinade.
"The person who agrees with you 80 percent of the time is a friend and an ally — not a 20 percent traitor" - Ronald Reagan
That's when the Barrett .416 comes into play. Faster, flatter, further than the .50.
Somewhere in Kenya, a village is still missing its idiot.
There are some serious air products in the market today. Get the sucker properly sighted-in and you can do damage.
Somewhere in Kenya, a village is still missing its idiot.
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The relationship between morality and liberty is a directly proportional one. "Only a virtuous people are capable of freedom. As nations become corrupt and vicious, they have more need of masters." - Ben Franklin
As wakeup mentioned, www.gamousa.com/ is a fine place to start. Personally, I'd stay far, far away from the CO2 powered products for any number of reasons, the main one being (non)availability of cartridges in a SHTF situation.
Somewhere in Kenya, a village is still missing its idiot.
Good list. Personally, for a survival rifle I go with the Mini-14 chambered for .223. It will take down a deer, a rabbit, or a snake. I'd put sprouts higher on the list but I'm glad to see they are there.
I think for very long term i.e., complete collapse, a black powder Sharp's replica would be a good choice.
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